Rambles in New Zealand - Part 4
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Although the soil of the table-land is rich, and remarkably level for New Zealand, it can never be settled from the plain, because of the utter impracticability of its western face; the eastern slope is more gradual, but until a good harbour is found in the Bay of Plenty it will be of as little use as the other. On the western side there is no such well-defined boundary, but a number of round hills shut in the view. The volcanic ridge of Tongadido closes the view to the southward. I have never reached Tongadido from this route, but I have no doubt the ascent would be found very gradual to the base of the mountain.
The Waiho is a river about the size of the Thames at Windsor. It runs with a steady, rapid current, and is generally free from logs and other obstructions; its average depth is about five feet, but it is too rapid to row against. The plain cannot properly be considered as the bed of the river, but a portion of original table-land through which it flows. The proper valley of the river is about half a mile wide, and is continuous with the course of the stream all through the plain. The land is rich, and is covered with flax from ten to twelve feet in height. Scattered at intervals are small groves of tall Kaikatea trees; but these spots are so few that the plain in general may be described as perfectly free from timber.
There is no doubt in time this will be a fine country, but I cannot help thinking the land around Port Nicholson offers far greater advantages; it is true round the valley of the Hutt the land will cost labour to prepare it for cultivation, but it is undoubtedly very rich, and will make good and speedy return for the outlay upon it. Now the land on the Waiho, which will not cost much money to work, is not better, perhaps not so good, as the bare hills to the south of Port Nicholson, and the swampy lands of the Waiho will cost almost as much to drain, as heavy timbered land to clear; and it is well known bogs do not immediately become useful land, but that several years must
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elapse after they are reclaimed, before they will bear crops of grain.*
The Waiho, although a much larger river, is not more useful than the Hutt, as it will only serve for the downward conveyance of produce, for which purpose the latter is equally capable; and in Port Nicholson the farmer has the advantage of his port town close to him, whilst on the Thames he is from thirty to forty miles from it, and consequently from his market; the almost total absence of timber on the Thames will
also be a serious difficulty to the farmer, as he will, in most instances, be obliged to bring his wood for all purposes from a distance, besides buying, instead of cutting it upon his own land.
The only advantage the Thames has over the Hutt is its plain, admirably adapted for rearing herds of cattle without the labour of cultivation, and I have no doubt, in a few years, it will be so occupied from New South Wales, by persons accustomed to that kind of employment; but I apprehend few from this place would at present feel disposed to embark in such a speculation.
I can say, moreover, from all I have seen or heard of the different harbours of New Zealand, Port Nicholson is by far the best for the settlement of a new colony, not only from its geographical situation, but because the site of the town is much superior to any other that has yet been found in the country; and there is abundance of excellent land, sufficient for the employment of any amount of population there may be for twenty years to come.
At the Bay of Islands it is almost impossible to find a place suitable for the site even of a moderate village, and the country is so rough and broken, that there are no means of going from one part of the Bay to another by land; and the shores also of the
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*Fully one half of the plain of the Waiho is an impassable bog covered with high rushes, the largest remaining portion poor fern land; and there is a considerable portion of wet stony land covered with rank vegetation without bushes.
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Gulf of Hamaki are more mountainous even than those of the Bay of Islands.
At Port Nicholson there is an excellent harbour; a navigable river, the Hutt; a great extent of very rich land; an admirable site for the town; with a population at present of between two and three thousand persons, among whom are many of high family connexions and respectability from England, who have brought considerable capital with them, and a consequent demand for labour - most of which advantages are not to be found on the Thames, where there are as yet no emigrants, and where it is very certain none will be sent by Government, and where the population will be made up entirely from the emigration of doubtful characters from New South Wales, or of fickle, discontented spirits from this place. - The natives on the Thames have always been known as a very bad set, and those who were here at the beginning of this settlement will understand what trouble an ill-disposed set of natives may give to a new-comer, who has everything to do, and none but these to help him.
Port Nicholson has been most wantonly cried down at Sidney by parties interested in other settlements; because they had land there, and none here. I saw the other day, in “The Sidney Colonist,” a letter from a person they called their Konorarika correspondent: this veracious individual described Thorndon as “liable to be washed away by the floods from the hills after heavy rains:” which ridiculous nonsense would not be worth noticing, but from the danger of its being believed by persons having no means of learning the truth, for the situation of Thorndon is, of all others, one the most perfectly exempt from any danger from floods; and one hardly knows how sufficiently to admire the impudence of the person who could state as truth so visible an impossibility. I think it of little consequence what people in other parts of
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New Zealand say of this place, as I am satisfied no long period will elapse before it will become, as it deserves, the one of the greatest consequence in the country; its local advantages being greater, and its settlers* so much superior in character, education, property, and every requisite for the final success of a colony to those of the resident Europeans in other parts of New Zealand, that it cannot fail to prosper, if the colonists do not suffer themselves to be deceived and misled into new schemes for further emigration by interested parties, and which they may be sure will do them no good, and only throw them back to the state of discomfort naturally incident to a first arrival in any new settlement.
J. C. BIDWILL.
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*I am at this moment residing with Mr. Molesworth, brother of Sir William Molesworth, Bart.; and among a host of respectable settlers, who give a high moral tone to society here, I may name Petre, son of Lord Petre; - Sinclair, brother or son of Sir George Sinclair; Dorset, Wakefield, Hopper, Partridge, Bruce, Scot, Hobson, Mantell, Hunter, Majoribanks, Biggs, Jones, Lloyd, &c. &c.
The End.
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Salter, Thomas U., Heavitree, Devon.
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Vyse, Thomas, Cripplegate Buildings, London.
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White, Edward, St. Thomas’, Exeter.
Ward, Joel H., do. do.
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Wescot, Miss, Mount Radford, Exeter.
Woodman, Thomas, Cross, Alphington.
Woodman, William, Exeter.
Wickham, Mrs., Birmingham.
Woolcombe, Mrs. Capt. Edward, R. N., Exeter.
Ware, John, Exeter,
Westmot, J. L., St. John’s, New Brunswick.
Walker, D. R. G., Budleigh Salterton, Devon.
Williams, Charles, Torquay, Devon.
Walsh, Captain, Colyford, Devon.
Walton, Charles, London.
Wardrop and Ewart, London.
Whyte, J. B., London.
Woodley, W. and J., London.
Wood, M. and Co., London.
Yzarn, J. B., London.
Yarde, Edward, Crediton.
York, Mr., Helston.
Yglesias, M., London.
Yglesias, J. R., London.
The End
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